GEET Technology by inventor Paul Pantone

This is a step by step tutorial on how to build your own GEET device.

 This is a greatly simplified "Proof of Concept" version of the GEET Fuel Processor that just about anyone can build from parts from a local Hardware store in a weekend for very low cost. A used lawnmower engine will be used for demonstration purposes so things will be easier to see without obstructions.

The basic configuration remains the same for any retrofit conversion to engines. More advanced versions are now available from GEET that use air management valves that combine all 3 valve functions with automatic sequencing, and also carburetor or fuel injection systems to replace bubblers in moving vehicles.

5 kW electric generators and 3 ½ HP demonstration engines are available now from GEET. Complete component retrofit kits will be available shortly for most cars and trucks starting at $1,000 plus installation. Large Diesel and Turbine conversions will be available as soon as development funding is available from investors.


 Step 1 - Tools needed - pipe wrench, crescent wrench, spring tube benders, pipe cutter, pipe flaring tool, allen wrench, soldering equipment, file, and screw driver. Obtain all your parts and tools needed for the conversion ahead of time.













Most professional plumbing supply stores stock higher quality parts compared to large home centers cheap plumbing parts. The savings aren't that much on a small project like this. The most crucial quality part is on the inner pipe, problems arise from inconsistent wall thickness, out of roundness, thick weld seams, etc on low quality pipe.

Step 2 - Strip down the engine removing the gas tank, muffler, and carburetor. Remove the mower blade and replace with a 12" diameter steel disk flywheel of the same thickness as the blade for safety.



  Step 3 - Take the 1"x1/2"x1/2" reducing tees and mount them on a 1" nipple (short pipe), and then using a lathe, machine the end smooth and fly cut (bore out) the hole in the end 27/32" (21mm) so that the 1/2" inner pipe will slide inside. This procedure can also be done by using a drill press to drill a 27/32" or 7/8" hole in the end of the tee and then use a file to smooth the roughness off.
The 1/2" pipe connector and 1/2" tee will each need to have one end smoothed off as well to receive the copper washers as a tight seal. If anyone has a machine shop that would like to do this for others, contact GEET. We might also offer a complete kit that has all the parts ready to be assembled in minutes if there's enough interest.

Step 4 - Have a plumber or plumbing center cut your inner reactor 1/2" pipe to 16 + 7/16" and thread both ends. Use Black Pipe here because galvanized pipe gives off toxic fumes if heated too much. File the 12" x 1/2" multi-fuel steel rod to a bullet point on one end only. (7 + 3/8" x 1/2" for gasoline only) This will keep you out of trouble later if you can't remember which way the rod points. The engine will not run if the rod is put in backwards after it has a magnetic signature.
Assemble the parts in order as in the above picture using the 7/8" / 22mm copper.washers used in oil drain plugs for cars. (2 - 1"x1/2"x1/2" machined reducing tees joined by the 12" long 1" nipple, slide the 16 + 7/16" long 1/2" reactor pipe inside, add a copper washer on each end and then add the 1/2" connector and 1/2" tee.)

  Step 5 - Assemble the other valve component subassemblies above. The 1/2" thick steel intake / exhaust adapter plate above is used only on some engines like "Tecumseh" and Overhead Valve Engines (picture 9).

Some "Briggs and Stratton" engines, etc usually already have the exhaust threaded for 1/2" pipe, but the intake is on the other side of the engine causing longer hose runs. Also a compression pipe connector or a piece of rubber hose with clamps will need to be connected from the engine intake to the Bubbler pipe.

(1/2" valve (Air Mixture Valve), 1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" tee, 1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" valve (Throttle Valve), 1/2" to 1/4" pipe reducer bushing, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple.) and (Muffler, 1/2" ball valve (Optional - Back pressure valve), 3"  x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" tee, 1/2" to 1/4" pipe reducer bushing, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1 1/2" nipple.) 
Step 6 - Assemble the sub-assemblies onto the reaction chamber above making sure to install the 12" rod inside pointed away from the engine. Now it's time to start on the bubbler.