Geet Technology by inventor Paul pantone 2

This is part 2 of the GEET tutorial


  Step 7 - Take 10 3/4" x 1/2" copper pipe and solder a copper 1/4" NPT - 1/2" pipe adaptor on one end and a 1/2" cap on the other. Drill a 1/16" hole through the cap, turn 90 degrees and drill through again, also one up through the bottom. Take the other 1/4" NPT - 1/2" adaptor and cut off the thinwall portion to make a pipe nut and file smooth for inside the Anti-Freeze jug.
 
Step 8 - Take a 1 gallon anti-freeze jug and drill a 1/2" hole near the top of the jug and through the cap as illustrated. Assemble the parts together in the following order. (Hose, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1/4" pipe connector, short 3/4" nipple, bushing, hole in jug, bushing, and pipe nut.) and ( (Optional - Back Pressure Hose), half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1/4" pipe elbow, short 3/4" nipple, bushing, hole in jug cap, bushing, and soldered pipe.)

Step 9 - The port adapter was formed by cleaning the intake and exhaust ports off. Then dipping a finger in the exhaust port to get some soot to rub on wide masking tape taped over the ports. This then leaves a perfect template to then tape into a 1/2" thick piece of steel, then drill the mounting and the port holes and tap the ports with a 1/2" NPT thread tap.

Step 10- Use 1/2" tubing for 10 HP or less (* 5/8" tubing and flare fittings for 10-20 HP) with a 1/2" tubing spring bender and form a loop, then remove the spring. Slide the flare nuts on each end, and then slide the flaring tool on so that the pipe sticks out about 3/16", make the flared ends. A/C supply houses carry flare fittings if you have difficulty finding them.

Step 11 - Assemble all the parts onto the engine, and then add a 1" pipe support or 1 1/4" exhaust hangar. Fill the bubbler up no more than 1/4 full till you get used to using it (up to half full later), have someone steady the jug while starting the engine so it doesn't spill into the hoses. If wet fuel gets on the reaction rod it will stop running, you'll have to dry your rod and hoses out. You can hang it from the mower handle if you like later after it's started.
You must point the exhaust end of the rod due North while starting the engine the first time and let it run for 30 min to "burn in the rod". The rod will self center magnetically by itself after it's running or you can weld three bumps on each end to center the rod (file them to fit snugly).

Leave the optional back pressure valve open, open the throttle and mixture valve about halfway, and start the engine by varying the air mixture valve.

Then slowly increase the throttle wide open while adjusting the air mixture valve. Make sure to paint all external pipes and connectors with High Temperature Grill Paint or they will rust very quickly. (Except copper, brass or galvanized)
 
Step 12 - For an installation on a generator, you can also use 90 degree elbows to keep the pipes within the cage. Mount the GEET Fuel Processor as far away as possible from the generator magnetic field so they do not interfere with each other. Also be very careful with credit cards in your pockets or video cameras, etc from getting too close to the engine while it's running so they won't be erased.

Finally - Experiment with the optional Back Pressure valve to run closed loop on heavy fuels, different materials for the inner pipe and reaction rod. Different rod lengths and also threaded rods, engine side of the reactor locations for the air mixture and/or throttle valves, exhaust heated copper tubing from the bubbler to the throttle valve, 5 gallon bubblers, double bubblers for non-soluble fuels, vacuum gages, etc, etc, and also "alternative fuels".



GEET By Paul Pantone